April -01 2017
Finally got around to building the Meccanoid G15 Dino variant.
The plans are on Meccano site under instructions .
It is at least as cute as humanoid version. Roughly same build time. Maybe a little less.
Noteworthy if Building Dino from already constructed G15 is that it’s not needed to completely disassemble servos. ONLY down to the Yellow rotating bracket. Servo motor, motor mount and white cylinder case stay together. Legs can stay together too.
If your clever you can keep the legs attached feet motors and just remove cross brace. Saves some time.
Tricky points are back bone/carrying handle and left/right head servo wire. Instructions may be a little vague on backbone. Takes a little bit of force to push into place then put a screw in it on the “tail” servo box and there will be some stress on the LED plate up front. Once in place stiffens Dino up and makes for great Dino Carrying Handle.
The left/right head servo wire is too tight if you try to route it as shown; though it will fit. Find the easier and less stressed path.
Dino has limited functionality without Meccanoid App. Meccabrain must be switched to ‘Drone Mode’ for Dino. Same for any of your own creations. This will limit voice commands but not L.I.M. Meccanoid App Rag_Doll and Avatar don’t work but Slider and Behavior modes do.
Meccabrain looks for the Robot Mode configuration of servos but only in Robot Mode.. If not available then Meccanoid will respond with ” Module_Name is disconnected” if not where it should be or “That’s not where that Goes” if it’s not in the slot it should be in. Module_Name being servo or LED out of place or missing. Is coolest part of assembling Robot. Hard to mess up routing of wire. Dino and any other creations using Drone Mode presently don’t have this feature.
In Robot mode the cables can be connected and disconnected with power on and Meccanoid will update telling you if wiring is not right.
This excludes the foot motors and of course if you disconnect the battery nothing is going to happen. You can also change back and forth from Drone Mode to Robot mode without shutting Meccabrain power off.
HINT and HELP: If you rename your robot and it doesn’t respond to name you can press any of the Meccabrain buttons to get the robot to listen mode. It’s eyes change color indicating Menu selection and not listening for it’s name.
Then you Change the name again and/or try another name. This might help get Meccanoid’s attention in noisy environments as well. RAnTinG:
Big butt battery pack problem persists. Worstened in G15 Dino’s instance. Weight on caster wheels instead of drive wheels. Teeter -tottering due to weight being in back and some up front Slips wheels excessively especially in left turn and right turn. Go forward only and your good. Not really No. Not as much. Going slow in behavior mode works.
I used my version of a 5S pack attached cross bar between legs . Removed but pack and clears up most of problem. A better place for C cell pack would be between the legs but need longer screws or possibly duct tape. Quack.
Apparently the site (Meccano) has undergone some revision towards the newer Meccanoid 2.0. Including the availability of Meccabrain 2.0. Listing about 50$USD. Allowing G15 owners an upgrade path.
I guess. Other than a revised voice control menu-ing system and a few more games and Trivia. I don’t see it. 2.0 Meccabrain has more SPI memory and so can store more data. How much more is useable by the end user? Don’t know yet. In theory should allow more L.I.M. storage. Most likely taken up by extended vocabulary and new Games, Trivia. Unfounded theory and speculation. Don’t have 2.0 yet. G15 has more servo slots that are not present on 2.0 AKA G16.
The G15and KS building plans are still available however the G15 and KS are no longer on their own pages and have been moved to a comparison chart. You’ll need to go to : http://www.meccano.com/instructions select keyword search and enter “G15” in Reference box. Dino plans and original G15/KS Robot plans should show up.
The newest version firmware is 2.7. Get it. It has a few extras including voice commands: What Time is It Play A Game Dance With Me Hug Me
and the battery Level display is back on App start up.
Hidden command “set alarm” seems to have gone.
Tangent sort of:
Meccasaur coolness. Toddler walker linkage bar setup. Doesn’t really stomp around. More like a graceless shuffle. Does roar good. Uses a light sensor to detect movement in guard mode. Not exactly a trip point setup. Need to set light source on side opposite Meccasaur across pathway you plan to monitor. Works best in darkened room with single light source.
That is: Meccasuar== > Pathway <=== Light Bulb
In other words: a shadow must be cast over the sensor to activate.
Anyhow I like the brow ridge and eyes on Meccasaur better. Lose the Dino big eyes.
Not exactly Brain Surgery. It is a brain of sorts.
Having trouble with the clock not holding time since day one I knew I’d have to replace the clock battery sooner or later, or so I thought. Ha.
After updating the firmware flash and downloading the new App; the clock not functioning is now an issue because the drag and drop “behavior” programming has a use for it. There’s also a hidden function in ‘settings’ menu that allows setting an alarm. Woo hoo. I was thinking that would be a nice function about a year ago. Scary.
I had it apart once before but only for cursory examination to check the board to see if it was indeed the one that had a clock battery and not a third farad capacitor. Sure enough it had a battery hard soldered. Not having an extra one of that type or any other suitable replacement to be soldered in I quickly slapped it back together without much further examination.
Oooops. Ya. Assumptions and all that. Take a look. Nice solder job. NOT.
Can you see it? Just above the clock chip. No? Look closer to battery to the right of “C24”.
How about now?
You know when you give a people a bowl a rice a day and work for 14 or more hours this happens. I’m just saying. I could be wrong, but given that the vast majority of chips on this board are China Mart , probably not.
There were some other nice pieces of solder slag laying on the board. I’ve become accustomed to checking boards from overseas manufacturers. Not only China. Please don’t think I’m picking on China. Many manufacturers produce quality products cheaply. This is not one of those. Lots of nice cold solder joints too.
Here’s one the larger pieces for example. Doesn’t look like much but was laying across traces next to the blob. The black blob is the CPU/MCU. It didn’t appear to be attached by anything other green protectant paint layer. Most were like that and smaller. Not cool.
Checked the clock battery at 2.85VDC, not great but good enough for a while. Not worthy of a replace. Cleaned up what I thought I should and put it back together. FWIW that solder slab was shorting to clock crystal to one of the clock IC pins. The clock does work now. However the Firmware /ROM has issues. More on that laters. ONE Down. Pencil in another dozen problems. Sigh. A few more pics for ya:
What kind of sadistic toy manufacturer … rhetorical?
Relating to the 4 ‘C’ cell butt battery pack. The G15 is cute and fun in itself. The build is tedious. Keeping a ten year old interested for 6 to 11 hours is questionable, and the G15 is the shorter build than the G15 KS. Then to have the fun cut short by battery. Sad. A rechargeable sufficient power battery pack for G15 should have been made available at the beginning.
This article is intended for those who can at least wire and load batteries in flashlight. It is also for those who find big butted anthropormorphic robots that are not decidedly female are disturbing.
Usual disclaimer: Don’t do it. Damage to life, property and unicorns may result. I’m serious. Don’t hurt no unicorns.
First thing first go to Meccano.com and download the robot updater:
This is essential. The old rom needs the update if you haven’t already. It’s a power piggy. Get the update. It’s not just for changing the language.
If your an electronics type of people you’ll probably want to know a 6.0V /5 cell 2000mah NiMH pack works well in the G15 Meccanoid without complication. It’s fused at 2.5A. A six cell is not recommended due to review of some of the peripherals onboard as well a using a 3V linear regulator which may get hot. It’s also what is used on the G15 KS. Which is the same controller as best any one can tell just with 4 extra servos . Look for the leaked schematics from the FCC. 🙂
Yes I am running this minor MODification and have been for many hours now without error or problem other than what was already irritating me whilst running alkaline.
For Instance: One Noisy servo whining at me and clock which doesn’t hold time which probably means I’ll have to actually crack the brain and pull the defective coin battery. Yes there is one even though there’s no facility(s) to use it other than to reply to “What time is it?” Notice that there’s no “What day is it ?” command. Oh a “wake me at 5 a.m.” clock function would be nice. But noooooo. A moving alarm clock would be harder to hit or smash.
Four ‘C’ cells. Yaaaa. Own stock in battery manufacturer do you? Good quality alkalines will MAYBE get a half hour to 45min. run and those are NOT cheap. New Meccanoid 2.0 (AKA G16) at least has ‘D’ cells.
Sure, buy the more expensive KS unit and get some run time. It uses the 5S NiMH. Comes with battery charger too. 5S meaning five cell Nickel Metal Hydride. 5C means something different in rechargeable World. The ‘C’ refers to charge/discharge rate. Which should not be confused with ‘C’ type batteries which refers to physical size. Stop here if you’re confused. Intentional.
5 that’s FIVE commonly available AA size NiMH rated 1200 mAH or better. I’m using 2200mAH NiMh. Charged and ready. Duh. Could use AA NickelCadmium (NiCd ) but those are usually about half the power rating. Roundabouts 400-600mAH mostly for NiCd. Useable. Rechargeable and more power are the key points. Work with what is in your possession first. If NiCd charger and batteries is what you have. Use them. I highly suggest NiMH.
NEVER NEVER NEVER
NEVER mix battery types. Alkaline only with alkaline. NiCd only with NiCd. NiMH only with NiMH. Lead-Acid only with Lead-Acid. Same size (AA, C, D ) with same size, Try to keep same Amp-Hour(AH or mAh) rating on rechargeables. Carbon zinc (Zinc chloride/Ammonia Chloride) only with the trash can. They have no place in this. Ignore this at your own peril/demise. Burning, exploding, injury, possibly fatality. Yes I’m laying the scare on thick here and not being unreasonable. There are other newer cell chemistries which pack more energy per unit but increasingly dangerous as well that I refrain from mention herein.
6 cell AA battery holder with one cell holding jumpered or shorted, or a 4 cell holder with a single cell holder or an eight cell holder with 3 shorted/jumped cell holders. Getting the idea that 5 cells are needed in series yet? What’s ‘series’? Probably best you not be here or at least type in “series batteries” in your search engine.
Tamiya battery connector. mini Female. Round Ground black. Square power B+ red. Tamiya on Meccanoid. Either snagged from battery box or new. Available at your local Radio Control (RC) hobby shop and online. For to and so much one could simply get a RC battery and charger from a knowledgeable RC hobbyist working there. Bring the battery box connector with you. Saying Tamiya may not be enough. A 5 cell 6.0v NiMh or NiCd pack that you think u can secure on bot frame. Not 4 cell. Not 6 cell. FIVE. Five Cell.
5. F-I-V-E . 5.
Also known as an 5S 6.0v NiMH or NiCd pack having mAH ratings of 1000 and up. No you don’t need the fancy 20 cell charger and 200amp power supply it needs. A simple AC wall wart charger and connector with idiot light for on and charged is good ’nuff fer now. Honestly some of them hobby sellers are worse than used car salesmen. Yes the cheap chargers suck and are somewhat detrimental to battery life but they work. Should be able to get out of there around 25-35$USD.
A four cell will work for a bit but on board battery power detection will shut down in a few minutes. A series four cell pack of 1.2v is nominal 4.8 volts. That’s a dead set of battery in Alkaline land where 1.5v times 4 is a nominal 6.0v. Also why jamming four fresh 1.2v rechargeable AA in the C slots of the battery fanny pack only works for a bit. Ya sure you didn’t try that.
The disadvantage is being stuck with a battery and charger that may be good for only one thing. Individual cells are better in my opinion. They are: configurable, common charger, useable in other devices and projects. If you and/or others in your dwelling get into this hobby “Robotics” there WILL be other projects needing those batteries and most likely not just in 6.0Vdc. Then they get bigger and more advanced. Then the chargers get bigger and more capable, and then … well. Have you seen the Frankentstein movies where there’s huge power arrays, Tesla coils, Jacob’s Ladders, Townsend gas discharge globes/tubes, Faraday cages, Van de Graff generators and the like sprawled across the lab floor and an ominous work table on which delicate arranged rats nest of wires in certain spots with an assortment of slightly smoking soldering irons? Like that, only more modern and slightly less chance of electrocution. Slightly.
Basically that’s it. The battery box does have a 2.5A slow blo poly fuse. That’s a fuse that resets itself assuming the power though it isn’t excessive. It’s up to you if you want to add one in line(series). An automotive type blade fuse or even an older glass style in the 2A to 3A slow blo range would be good. Some manufactured battery packs have them in the blister wrap of the battery pack. I haven’t had my hands on an official K15GS battery pack so I’m without my ball of twine. (no clue). But, whereas the G15 has one on its’ fanny pack I’ll assume there’s one on the KS as well. At the least the leaked schematics suggest that it is so. It is a good idea to prevent damage due to shorting on the the servo outputs which aren’t fused. Those do have ESD protection on signal line but not fused. So if ur tinkering in that side please do. Barring stupid like try to bypass the key way and slamming servo connector in upside down. I havent fused on my quick rig yet and so picture shows. When I get to that I will put a fuse. There is a mosfet switch and current sense on the v-mot line and v_bat which suggests that there would be a shut off if excessive current was detected by the processor. Guess there. Assumption. The processor , USB, and peripherals have their own fuse and blocking diode. The servos have their own regulators.
One could also us a 6v sealed lead acid. But that’s covered on Youtube by someone else. The charger and battery can often be bought at department stores and sporting goods where hunting supplies such as deer feeders and camping supplies such as 6v lanterns are sold. SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) 6v batteries come in several sizes. 4AH being the most available and resembling physically the same size as 6V Alkaline Lantern battery but being able to be recharge a couple hundred times usually less. YMMV. Improper use as in trying to put too many amps out or overcharging usually kills them. Majority of batteries are rated 20hr rate. Take the 4AH SLA battery divide by 20. That battery would put out 200ma per hour for 20 hours without harm to battery. That’s less than what your bot wants. So it’s gonna want more. The more it sucks the less run time and the less battery life overall. Same goes for NiCd and NiMH but far less effect on overall life. Again “cheap charger” can cause issues but with care should be fine. Most notably some chargers may push the fresh SLA to significantly higher voltages than 6V. This is temporary effect. Let the battery sit off charger for ten minutes and is likely to go down to usable voltage less than 7V. SLA are heavy and don’t last as long recharge-wise and cost easily as much as a Five NiMh. Five times the life or more, and less weight, but only little more than half the power per charge with AA NiMH. The weight of the SLA may be helpful for traversing rugs. Helps the wheels from slipping by more friction. Where it’s put makes a difference. The robot builders quandary: Power vs. weight vs. run time/ functionality then at cost per unit say WH (watt-hour) and serviceability cost. That’s just the battery concern for rovers.
There’s a “the the” in there somewhere. One last butt picture: